 Hawks restaurant in Grante Bay features an alluring blend of wine country rusticity and big city sophistication. Its extensive menu showcases the finest artisanal products from Northern California’s bountiful countryside, crafted into memorable contemporary American dishes by a pair of the state’s most promising young chefs, all served in a seductive, casually elegant setting.
Hawks is the collaborative vision from husband-and-wife team Molly Hawks and Michael Fagnoni, who have built a restaurant that reflects the soul of the California countryside, but with an elegant sense of style that appeals to a sophisticated clientele. Acclaimed San Francisco restaurant designer Shawn E. Hall collaborated with local Granite Bay designer Danielle Petkus to create a series of casually elegant spaces that exhibit indigenous local materials layered with high-end finishes and a touch of whimsy—the same marriage of rusticity and elegance found on the menu. Hawks and Fagnoni have created a fine dining environment to properly showcase the carefully crafted cuisine, while maintaining a sense of warmth and accessibility. Emphasizing its versatility, Molly Hawks notes, “Guests can sit at the bar and have a burger and a beer, or celebrate their most special occasions in one of our private dining rooms.”
The cuisine at Hawks reflects familiar American themes laced with classic influences from France and Italy. Jointly executed by the husband-and-wife culinary team, both chefs bring extensive experience from some of the country’s most regarded kitchens. A Culinary Institute of America graduate, Fagnoni cooked at New York’s Oceana and served as Sous Chef to Traci Des Jardins at San Francisco’s acclaimed Jardinière. During his years as Chef de Cuisine at The Village Pub, Fagnoni met his future wife who was also in the kitchen at this famous Woodside, CA establishment. Hawks cooked throughout Northern California after graduating from the California Culinary Academy, and held both Sous Chef and Chef de Cuisine positions at The Village pub prior to this current venture. Reflecting their philosophy of “searching out the shortest path from farm to feast,” every dish incorporates seasonal, market-fresh products from local family farms, dairies and artisans.
An oak floor, hand-hewn from reclaimed whisky barrels, and a prominent dark wood bar topped with a shimmering slab of white Calcutta Oro marble await guests upon entering the restaurant through an ornate wrought iron door flanked by gas lanterns. The adjoining lounge, ideal for either romantic interludes or convivial gatherings, offers plush mohair couches paired with mirror-topped black-lacquered cocktail tables, illuminated by a striking black crystal chandelier. With its sexy lighting, Old World accents and intimate dimensions, the lounge suggests a contemporary version of a nineteenth century Parisian salon. Guests can relax over a glass of wine or cocktail, or order selections from the menu, which is offered in its entirety.
In the main dining room, where a series of Pullman-style booths are upholstered in rich chocolate mohair, floor-to-ceiling windows provide soothing views of a pond, while other tables offer peeks inside the frenetic kitchen through an open door. Chandeliers shaped like lotus blossoms cast a warm glow, while the walls are lined with artistic black-and-white photos of local farms, reminding guests of the land responsible for the superlative ingredients that go into the food at Hawks. Candlelit tables are dressed up with white linen, Sambonet flatware, Bernardaud china and delicate Spiegelau stemware. Separated from the main dining room by a sliding wooden barn door is the Cellar Room, containing a glass-ensconced wine cellar.
The centerpiece of the restaurant’s charming, umbrella-laden patio is a dramatic fire-andwater feature rising from a reflecting pool. Hawks is ideal for private events, and state-ofthe-art audio-visual equipment accommodates business gatherings. The owners, assisted by Wine Director Kevin Tyson, are committed to setting new standards of service in the region, with Molly Hawks insisting, “We plan on reintroducing people to what great hospitality is all about,” emphasizing the rigorous, ongoing training of all Hawks service staff.
Lunching businesspersons and area residents can appreciate the chefs’ passion for seasonal farm-fresh ingredients in starters like Greens (from Edwards Farm in Colfax) paired with Favetta Crostini and dressed in sherry vinaigrette; or Roasted Asparagus & Morel Mushrooms topped with a poached farm-fresh egg, before moving on to entrées such as Seared King Salmon (caught in Northern California waters) with grilled artichokes and mustard greens. Representing the restaurant’s commitment to traditional American themes is the Hawks Burger, grilled over an almond wood fire and sandwiched in a fresh housemade bun. For weekend brunch, the chefs turn out dishes like Wild Mushroom & Brie Omelet with roasted potatoes; fluffy Lemon & Ricotta Pancakes with Vermont maple syrup and pecan butter; and Quiche Lorraine with local farm lettuces and Dijon vinaigrette.
In the evening, Hawks’ and Fagnoni’s culinary philosophy is expressed in alluring starters like Sautéed Day Boat Scallops with English peas, used in both a purée for saucing and in a salad with chanterelle mushrooms; and Pan-Roasted Quail with fava bean farrotto and glazed walnuts, in which classic European techniques are applied to local California ingredients. Entrées follow that theme, with Filet Mignon with crispy Pommes Sarladaise and béarnaise sauce; or Sautéed Sturgeon with asparagus, lemon-potato mousseline and caviar sauce. Desserts at Hawks, prepared by native Granite Bay Pastry Chef Michelle Andreotti, include a Chocolate Zabaglione Tart with Pine Nuts and Crème Anglaise; Peach Tarte Tatin with Vanilla Bean Gelato; and Vanilla Panna Cotta with Blueberry Confiture and Candied Lemon.
The moderately priced wine list at Hawks naturally showcases the efforts of Golden State winemakers, but also features a viticulture tour of Europe, with wines from France, Italy, Spain, and Germany all represented among the nearly 200 selections. Prices range from the low thirties for bottles produced by innovative boutique wineries to several hundreds for highend labels—exalted châteaux from Bordeaux and heavy-hitters from Napa Valley—suitable for special occasions. Over two-dozen wines are poured by the glass, prompting Molly Hawks to comment, “We really enjoy educating our guests, constantly offering them new tasting experiences.” An extensive selection of handcrafted beers and ales is also on hand, and the bar specializes in classic cocktails (e.g. the perfect Martini, Manhattan, Old Fashioned) as well as contemporary creations composed of the finest seasonal ingredients.
ABOUT HAWKS
Hawks is located at 5530 Douglas Boulevard in Granite Bay’s Quarry Pond Town Center. It is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and dinner seven nights a week from 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. The bar and lounge remain open between meals, and brunch is offered Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Ample parking is available. Reservations, which are recommended, can be made by calling the restaurant at 916.791.6200. For more information, visit www.hawksrestaurant.com.
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